2019 - Loire Valley by Bicycle with Bob: Day 15: Sun 15 Sep

Walk: 20+ km

A bright and sunny day 12 to 29 deg. France is spoiling us with their weather; we thought that it would be cooler.

We decided to leave the bikes in the apartment today and use a few different muscles by walking around Orleans. What a wise decision it turned out to be as there are lots of cobbled streets in this city, a little hard going for one’s nether region.

Often you can judge a city by its central station and that is certainly the case in regard to Orleans. The Gare D’Orleans (Station) is compact, clean, and very stylish, just like the city. The concourse has a beautiful wavy glass roof that allows lots of natural light. So, we were off to a good start with our first stop of the day.

They get a lot of mileage out of Joan of Arc in this city, mainly since she liberated it from the Brits in 1429. However, the place has a hell of a lot more going for it than that. Just across from the Station proudly stood the Church of Saint Paterne (bro gothic style) one of about nine within spitting distance of the city centre. We chose three that we would visit. You may say “ABC”, but if you look closely and take your time you may enjoy the ambiance and differences of each one. I make a point of sitting quietly for a few moments, saying a little prayer, and letting the holiness drift over me. But I’d be the first to admit that this is not for everyone. Because we were there fairly early, the morning light penetrated dramatically through the lead lighting resulting in a kaleidoscope of colour.

We then wandered the couple of km to the city centre taking in the narrow streets and great medieval architecture of the Old City. The immaculate 14th century Groslot Hotel (formerly a mansion, the Town Hall and currently a marriage venue) belied its age. Unfortunately, we couldn’t gain entry to see the inside.

While we were many kms from the city on our ride in yesterday we could clearly see the two imposing main towers of the Royal Cathedral of the Holy Cross, so named because of relics of The Cross being located there since the 7th century. We knew then that it would be big, but up close you really get an eyeful. Most definitely the piece de resistance of the day. Grand, resplendent, magnificent, stunning, and beautiful all barely describe this Cathedral, both inside and out. My poor little iPhone camera struggled to do it any justice at all, but I keep trying. As a minimalist cycle tourer, I cannot justify lugging a camera with associated charging and downloading paraphernalia along on tours. However, those who carry cameras, like Bob, get a great deal of satisfaction, and better photos, from the effort.

We continued our wanderings through more of the Old Town, through lovely town squares and back lanes. Hardly anyone around; the tourists get up late thank goodness. A potential postcard picture awaited us every few metres. In the end I had to say to myself enough is enough. Lunch was a simple chicken sandwich under the shade of the Cathedral towers.

The afternoon saw us retreating to the comfort of our apartment for a short break. We wanted to freshen up prior to our ride back to the Cathedral for a Requiem Concert (Faure and Durufle) by a local Choral and Instrumental Group. Entry was by donation. It was splendid and the acoustics in the Cathedral were perfect.

Because most eateries around the apartment were closed Sunday evenings Chefy ended up utilising the small kitchenette to knock up some quick veggies which we had with our respective choices of meat and fish. Another magnifique day on tour.