Saturday, September 21, 2019

Day 21: Sat 21 Sep – Nevers to Dijon by train (2h20m)

Pity we’re not riding today it’s warmer this morning, 16 to 29 deg, fine and sunny.
Ride: a few km; Walk: 16 km

Took our time over coffee and porridge in the room this morning as our train doesn’t leave till 0930h.

Our “little different” host (ten cats, a goldfish tank (with an annoying blue light) and fish in our room) bid us farewell at 0820h. Although it was ok, Mr Host needs some serious maintenance and modifications on his motel.

As we rode towards the railway station the local markets were in the process of setting up. They were spread all over the town and involved the whole array of market stuff from fresh food to trash and treasure. It’s a shame we had a train to catch, or we would have lingered longer.

At the station Bob fetched a coffee from across the road and it was hot and strong. I’m enjoying the French coffee this trip; I haven’t been keen on it in the past.

Luckily, we were early so that assured us a hook to hang our bikes on; there were only six on the train. Within minutes all the six hooks were full. The train left exactly on time 0931h. We even ran into a UK couple who we’d talked to at Amboise about a week ago; it’s a small world. This area is certainly a mecca for cycle tourers.

Bob made a new friend, Xavier, an older German fellow who had just finished cycling the Black Sea to the Atlantic 1,450 km, a great effort. We are a friendly bunch, the biking fraternity. Saw some nice French countryside, but not the normal green and lush; quite dry really.

Arrived in Dijon a whole three minutes late, how awful. The ride to the motel indicated that we were in a very nice city, clean as a whistle and very well laid out with plenty of pedestrian only space. We couldn’t book in, but the “owner” took our luggage and locked it away. He didn’t have a place for our bikes, so they’ll have to remain on the street. Which is not ideal but they’re only bikes?

We then shot a bearing to the fresh food market hall which is normally a great venue to pick up some great lunch food. But alas this time it wasn’t so, all fresh food but nothing we could eat without first heating up. So, we wandered a bit more and came across a Carrefour mini supermarket which had everything we needed. I ended up with a chicken salad, Manhattan style. Lunch done we wandered again, aimlessly, the best way to see a city.

After a shower and dressing for dinner, we went walking and found ourselves further away than we’d planned. It certainly built up the appetite. Dinner was at a very busy restaurant we spotted earlier next door to the markets. We both had poached eggs in a red wine mushroom sauce for entrée and breast of duck with beans and potatoes for main. Both courses were tasty as.

Tomorrow we get fair dinkum about exploring Dijon.

Mustard shop

Self-serve mustard tasting

Medieval Dijon

Old books at a market stall

The Dukes Palace - now the City Hall / Fine Arts Museum and Archives

Our hotel, right in the city

A lovely fountain at President Wilson Palace

War memorial

Colombiere Park, a bit further than I anticipated

A Dijon mustard shop, that's all it sells

Clever mural in a window

Entering the Burgundy region, on the train

View from the train, it is dry here in the coutnryside

A nice mural as a backdrop to alfresco dining

Poached egg entree

My duck dish, nothing fancy but tasty

Dinner venue


Dijon by night




Friday, September 20, 2019

Day 20: Fri 20 Sep – Nevers

Yet another great day in France 4 to 26 deg, clear and sunny. A strange thing happens here, the maximum temp for each day happens about 1700h which nice for wandering around the towns in the early evening.
Walk: 17.5km

As we have two days in Nevers there’s no need to ride in the 4 deg outside this morning. This area dates back to BC times, Romans and even Julius Caesar made it here apparently. It was officially Nevers in the 10th century so there’s some history in the place alright. Of course, religion played a significant part in the history of Nevers which became a seat of the Bishop back in the 5th century. It still is today. Needless to say, there’s a truck load of churches and decommissioned churches within the city limits. Nevers is famous for making a tin glazed earthenware known as Faience. This craft was brought to the town in the 16th century. There’s also a not so shabby Castle / Palace here too, which is now the Town Hall. But it was mostly about churches and just wandering around the back streets today.

So, after getting a caffeine fix and a little pastry we wandered off in search of some more amazing sights. Things like the Church of Saint Peter, (17th century) Cathedral of Saints Cyricus and Julitta, (6 to 16th century) and the Chapel of Saint Mary.

About 1500h we retreated to our room for some time out and a cuppa refreshing green tea. A short time later I saw on the map that we had missed the oldest church so off we set again. It, Saint Stephen Church, was worth the extra km, it was dark, colourless, and rundown, which all added to the effect. Walked home via the supermarket and picked up some brekky stuff and some snacks for tomorrow’s train trip to Dijon.

After a shower we headed out one more time to find a dinner venue. They’re not oversupplied with choices here, we eventually settled for pizza, our first for the trip. But they didn’t open till 1900h, so we went wandering and found a medieval section of the city, which included the pottery, that we had missed during the day. It was great in the afternoon light.

The pizza was excellent; I never eat pizza out because they usually make the base too thick, but this was perfect, seafood, nearly as good as Wendy makes. We ended up chatting to a couple from Adelaide who are also cycle touring. They were the second couple from Adelaide cycling who we talked to that day!

I slept very well after all that walking.

Mornos

Inside the amazing Church of St Peter

Early morning light coming through the lead light

Church of St Peter

The Castle

Fine porcelain displayed in the Castle

Cathedral of Saints Cyricus and Julitta

Inside the Cathedral of Saints Cyricus and Julitta

The Resistance Monument

A mini Arc de Triomphe

The pottery

A part of the medieval town

My nearly finished yummy pizza


Thursday, September 19, 2019

Day 19: Thu 19 Sep – Sancerre to Nevers, 76km; total ride: 489km

Another cool start to the day 8 (feels like 5) to 20 deg with a NE tailwind. Brilliant sunny, cloudless sky.

Up early to catch the sunrise but due to the lack of clouds it was slightly unremarkable. The cold lazy wind which was accelerating up the side of the hill and going straight through us convinced us that a nice cuppa in our room was a much better option. After that and some porridge we set off about 0740h. The descent was more fun than yesterday’s climb.

Spent most of the day on “D” roads, smooth and quiet. Saw a few nice villages, the best being La Charité-sur-Loire, the home of the 9th century Notre-Dame Church. Like most older churches in this country, it’s had a very tough journey; in fact, it’s lucky to be still around. I love how they cherish their history here, warts and all. Time hasn’t been too kind to the old lady, and it needs a serious injection of funds. La C-s-L is also the home of great coffee, one of the best we’ve had on the tour. Purchased some supplies at the local Spar and sat beside the river for lunch.

The rest of the day was fairly straight forward, and we finished the ride at 1500h, thankful for the tailwind for most of the journey.

Dinner tonight wasn’t nearly as flashy as last nights, a salmon entree followed by fish, chips, and salad. It filled the gap though.

Sunrise at Sancerre

Sancerre

Halfway down the hill this morning

Morning tea stop - great coffee

Town Hall La Charite-sur-Loire


Notre Dame Church, La Charite-sur-Loire



Lunch; a tin of sauerkraut, lovely French bread, plain yoghurt and a banana, overlooking the river

Lunch stop

On the D-road again

Another canal bridge

Loire canal

"Just" a commercial building in the centre of town


Day 34: Fri 4 Oct – Brisbane to Hervey Bay

Arrived home about 48 hours after checking out of the hotel Lyon, a little bit trashed from the lack of sleep and sore from sitting in cramp...